Rosemary Roasted Chicken Legs with Kohlrabi, Yellow Carrots, Onions,and Garlic ローズマリー風味のチキンと野菜のロースト

Finished - rosemary roast chicken legs with kohlrabi, yellow carrots, onions, and garlic, a photo by naotakem on Flickr.

骨付きの鶏肉をいろんな野菜の上に載せてオーブンでローストすると鶏肉には野菜の風味が、そして根菜には鶏の焼き汁の旨味が移って実に旨いものです。しかも手のこんだ事をしなくても良いので調理が楽（でも見栄えは良い）という利点もあります。これはFrench Laundryのトマス・ケラーのレシピに触発されて作ったものです。丸ごとの鶏で作るとより見栄えも味も良いのですが今回は時間と手間を省いて鶏のモモ肉で作りました。それでも十分美味。

Chicken roasted on a bed of various root vegetables is a great standby dish when you don't want to get elaborate but enjoy a tasty meal that looks good as well - the aroma from the vegetables permeate the chicken, and juices from the roasting chicken infuse the vegetables with a rich flavor - best of both worlds. This dish was inspired by a Thomas Keller recipe, but I used chicken thighs instead of roasting a whole chicken (which I think tastes and looks even better) to save on time and effort. Tasted good nonetheless.

使った野菜は毎度おなじみのサンフランシスコ市役所前広場のファーマーズマーケットで買った無農薬・有機栽培のコールラビ（ブロッコリーとキャベツの合の子のような味）、黄色いニンジン、タマネギ、そしてニンニク。コールラビとニンジンは良く洗って皮を剥き、ざっくりと角切り。タマネギとニンニクは皮を剥いて根元部分を切り取り、タマネギは４等分、ニンニクはそのまま丸ごと。そんなゴロゴロした野菜をボウルに入れ、キャノーラ油をかけてタマネギが崩れない程度に混ぜ、塩コショウをして下ごしらえ終了。鶏肉は全面に塩コショウするだけ、とこちらも簡単。塩はなるべく良いもの、コショウは黒の碾き立てを使うと良し。あとは庭のローズマリーの枝を数本もぎ取って用意完了。

The vegetables used this time were purchased at the farmer's market at the San Francisco Civic Center - organic and pesticide-free kohlrabi (tasted like a cross between broccoli and cabbage), yellow carrots, yellow onions, and garlic. The kohlrabi and carrots (leaves removed) were washed well, peeled, and chopped into fairly large pieces. Removed the skin and the root ends from both the onions and garlic, quartered the onions, but kept the garlic cloves whole. Put the lumpy mix of vegetables in a bowl, poured some canola oil and mix to coat, then seasoned with some good salt and freshly ground black pepper. Seasoned the chicken thighs with salt and pepper, took a few springs of rosemary from the garden, and done with the prep.

調理はまず鶏肉に焼き色をつけるところから。そのままオーブンに入れることのできる鋳鉄のフライパン（無ければ深めの耐熱皿でも良いですが、見栄えはこちらが良い）にキャノーラ油を少量注いで良く熱し、鶏モモ肉をこんがりと焼きます。野菜と共にオーブンで仕上げるので中まで火を通す必要はなく、いい色になったら別皿に移しておきます。

Started the cooking by browning the chicken thighs in a well heated ovenproof cast iron skillet (a deep baking dish would do, but a cast iron skillet is more visually appealing) with a dash of canola oil. No need to cook through the chicken as it will be finished in the oven with the vegetables - remove from the skillet once you have a nice brown color and set aside on a platter.

鶏肉を取り出したままのフライパンに今度は野菜を投入し、さっとかき混ぜて焼き汁を絡めたら鶏肉をその上に載せ、さらにローズマリーも載せ、あらかじめ375F（190℃）に熱しておいたオーブンにフライパンごと入れます。そのまま野菜に火が通るまで（20〜30分）焼けば鶏肉も丁度仕上がり、あとは食べるだけ。上の写真では焼き上がり直前にレモンの輪切りを載せてさらに見栄え向上を図りましたが、これは別にしなくても良し。肉と野菜を一緒に食べる事のできる、ワインとも合う（ピノノワールかサンジョベーゼ等の軽めの赤が良い）一品です。

Add the vegetables to the same skillet (don't wash!), mix lightly to coat them with pan juices, place the browned chicken thighs on top with the rosemary, then place the skillet into an oven preheated to 375F and roast until the vegetables are cooked through (20-30 minutes) - the chicken should be also done at that point - and time to eat. The photo above shows lemon slices placed a few minutes before the roasting was done, but that's just an added step for aesthetic reasons. A one-dish solution for eating meat and vegetables. Also goes well with a light red wine such as Pinot Noir or Sangiovese.

Hakata style pork broth ramen with stir fried garlic chives and groundpork, scallions, and red pickled ginger ニラとネギの炒め物を載せた博多ラーメン

Hakata style pork broth ramen with stir fried garlic chives and ground pork, scallions, and red pickled ginger, a photo by naotakem on Flickr.

帰省されていた福岡出身の友人からお土産で頂いた博多・長浜ラーメン、いわゆるラーメンの具材を揃える機会が無かったので季節の野菜を使ったものを作りました。

具材とラーメンの出来上がり時間を合わせるため、まずラーメンを茹でるお湯（水道水）とスープ用のお湯（浄水器）を用意。少量のサラダオイルで細かく刻んだショウガと豚挽き肉を炒め、火が通ったところで塩コショウで味つけし、刻んだ春ニラを投入。さっと炒めたところに刻みネギと白ゴマを入れ、かるく混ぜて火を止めました。野菜に火を通しすぎずに味を楽しもうという意図です。

ニラ・ネギ炒めが仕上がったところでラーメンを茹で、温めておいた丼にスープの素とお湯を注ぎます。ラーメンの茹で時間は「バリカタ」を目指し１分少々。きっかり１分経過したところでラーメンを揚げ、よくお湯を切ってスープに加え、ニラ・ネギ炒めと彩りに紅ショウガを載せ、ささっと戴きました。

A Bay Area friend originally from Fukuoka, Japan gave us a box of Hakata style (Nagahama) ramen (known for the use of strong pork broth and thin, yet very firm noodles) containing semi-raw noodles and soup packs a while back. Instead of simply cooking it following the instructions on the box with the usual ramen toppings, we decided to have it with some seasonal vegetables.

In order to finish both the ramen and the vegetables at the same time, got a pot of tap water (for the noodles) and a kettle of filtered water (for the soup) boiling first. Once we had that going, sautéed some chopped ginger and ground pork until cooked, seasoned with salt and pepper, added chopped garlic chives (from the farmer's market), tossed with the pork briefly, then added some chopped scallions (also from the market) and sesame seeds, tossed again briefly, and removed from the heat. Idea was to avoid overcooking the vegetables so we could enjoy its full texture and flavor.

Once the stir-fry was done, we cooked the ramen noodles - only for a minute to achieve the state of doneness that people from Fukuoka refer to as "bari kata (very firm)" - while dissolving the soup mix with boiling filtered water from the kettle in a warm bowl. Drained the noodles at precisely 1 minute, tossed in a colander to remove any excess cooking water, added to the soup, served with the stir-fry on top with some picked ginger (colored red) for a dash of color. This is something meant to be eaten quickly - which is what we did.

Boudin Noir with Caramelized Apples and Sauerkraut ブーダン・ノワールとリンゴのカラメル、サワークラウト添え

これは材料の入手が少々難しいかもしれませんが、フレンチビストロで時々見かける一皿です（これまた再録ものです）。サニーベール市のファーマーズマーケットに出ていた精肉業者から買ったブーダン・ノワール（豚の血入りのソーセージ）をオーブンで焼き、黒砂糖とバター、ブランデーとクミンパウダーで表面がカラメル状になるまで炒め焼きにした薄切りのリンゴと、サワークラウト（これは 冷蔵庫に残っていた瓶詰め）を添えて頂きました。本当はソーセージが破裂しないように焼きたかったのですが…。かすかな獣臭さの残るブーダンと甘くコクのあるリンゴの組み合わせが絶妙な一皿でした。

This may be a slightly difficult dish to make because boudin noir (sausage with pork blood) is not easy to find, but when I found some sold at the Sunnyvale farmer's market, I took the opportunity to make this bistro dish (which I've read in an Anthony Bourdain cookbook). Prepared the apples by peeling then cutting into 1/16th pieces, then sautéed them in butter with some brown sugar, cumin powder, and brandy until caramelized. Served the apples with oven roasted boudin noir (wanted to keep the sausage intact, but this one exploded on me...), and some bottled sauerkraut I had left over in the fridge. A distinct yet flavorful combination of the slight gaminess of the boudin noir and the rich sweetness of the caramelized apples.

Cacio e Pepe カーチョ・エ・ペペ

スパゲッティそしてパルミジャーノ・レッジャーノ、ペコリーノの２種類のチーズとたっぷりの碾きたて黒コショウ、そしてオリーブ油で作る、ローマの名物パスタ。（カーチョ・エ・ペペとは文字通り「チーズとコショウ」）邪道かもしれませんがワインをさんざん飲んだあと、小腹を満たすのに食べると一層旨いような気がします。

作り方は至って簡単（以前こちらに掲載しました）。チーズを摺り下ろし、コショウを碾くという下準備のあとはタイミング勝負。良く塩を聞かせたお湯でスパゲッティを茹でている間にフライパンでコショウをオリーブ油で香り高く焦げぬように炒めたところ（焦げそうになったら火から下ろす等する）に、アルデンテ手前のスパゲッティを茹で汁少量と共に加え、チーズを混ぜ入れ、焦げ付かぬように茹で汁を足しつつクリーミーな状態に仕上げ、温めた皿に盛りつけ、即食べる、というものです。

Cacio e pepe ("Cheese and Pepper") is a simple yet fantastically tasty Roman pasta dish made with spaghetti, Parmigiano-Reggiano and Pecorino cheeses, lots of freshly ground black pepper, and some olive oil. This probably violates the Italian code of eating, but I like to have this after having lots of wine to cure that mild craving for food after drinks.

A very easy dish to make except for one thing - timing the cooking of the sauce and pasta - to avoid a burnt and/or over-gooey mess. Prep by grating the cheeses and grounding the pepper. Start cooking the spaghetti in boiling, well-salted water, then toast the ground black pepper in olive oil in a separate pan until fragrant but not burnt (remove from heat to avoid burning if necessary). Toss in the pasta with some pasta cooking water, add the cheeses, stir well, then adjust the sauce with pasta cooking water until you reach a creamy consistency. Quickly transfer to a warm dish or bowl, and dig in without wasting any time.

Roasted Pattypan Squash with Lemon and Parsley パティパン・スカッシュのロースト、レモンとパセリ風味

Another springtime vegetable dish - removed the stems from fresh pattypan squash (a cousin of zucchini with a cute shape), sliced them horizontally to show the shape, tossed them in good olive oil, spread them out on aluminum foil, seasoned with salt and pepper, then roasted in a 375F oven for 20~30 minutes until soft. Served with sliced lemon and chopped parsley.

First time having (or even cooking) this particular squash, but turned out to be delicious!

これも春野菜を使った一品。パティパン・スカッシュ（ズッキーニの仲間、少し可愛らしい形をしています）のヘタを切り取り、形を活かすために輪切りにしたものをボールにオリーブ油と入れて良く混ぜ、アルミホイルの上に重ならぬよう広げたところに塩コショウし、375℉のオーブンで20~30分、柔らかくなるまでローストしたものです。レモンの輪切りを載せ、パセリのみじん切りを散らして完成。

このスカッシュ、料理するのも食べるのも初めてでしたが、大層美味でした。

Spaghetti with Spring Garlic, Roasted Fava Beans, Lemon Zest, Parmesan, and Herbs 春ニンニク、そら豆、レモン、パルメザンとハーブのパスタ

Another dish made with fresh spring vegetables from the farmer's market.

Prepped the beans by roasting a pound of fava beans in their shells with some salt, pepper, and olive oil in an oven for 30~40 minutes and shelled them while warm into a bowl (didn't remove the skin from the beans). While the beans were roasting, grated some lemon zest, halved the lemon for easy squeezing, grated some Parmesan, cleaned and chopped the spring garlic (the bulbs and the white/light green part of the leaves), chopped up some flat parsley and basil leaves, and set them aside. Wanted to have all the materials ready because I wanted to cook the spaghetti and sauce simultaneously.

To cook, brought a pot of water to a boil and salted it generously (enough to provide enough saltiness through the spaghetti), then added the spaghetti to cook.  While the spaghetti was cooking, sautéed the garlic in some butter until fragrant, added a dash of white wine, then the beans, mix, then added a ladleful of pasta water along with the lemon zest, and squeezed in the lemon juice. Into this mixture went in the spaghetti - slightly undercooked, a tad short of al dente (timing is critical) - followed by the Parmesan and a dash of olive oil, and tossed well. Served on a warm dish sprinkled with the chopped parsley and basil.

Great meal for a warm spring evening.

これもまた、ファーマーズマーケットで入手した野菜で作った一皿です。

まず塩コショウとオリーブ油をかけ回した殻付きのままのそら豆をオーブンで30−40分ローストし、あら熱をとったら殻から豆を出しておきます（甘皮はとりませんでした）。豆をローストしながらレモンの表皮を摺り下ろし（レモン自体は半分に切っておきます）、パルメザンチーズも摺り下ろし、春ニンニクの汚れをとって根と葉の白／薄緑の部分を細かく刻み、イタリアンパセリとバジルの葉を数枚これまた細かく刻みます。材料を全て用意してスパゲッティを茹でる間にソースを一気に作ってしまおう、という意図です。

さて調理ですが、大鍋にたっぷりの湯を湧かし、塩をこれまた多めに（塩味はこれだけでつけてしまいます）入れ、スパゲッティを投入。同時に別の鍋でニンニクをバターで香りが立つまで炒め、白ワイン少しとそら豆を入れ、よく混ぜたらそこにパスタの茹で汁をお玉に一杯程度と摺り下ろしたレモン皮を加え、レモン汁を絞り入れます。

ここで丁度スパゲッティがアルデンテ少し手前になっていればしめたもの、お湯を切ってソースの鍋に投入し、摺っておいたパルメザンとオリーブ油を少しを加えて良く混ぜます。温めたお皿に盛りつけ、パセリとバジルを振ってできあがり。

春の宵にふさわしい美味な夕食となりました。

Two Leafy Vegetable Dishes 青野菜料理二つ

和食食べる時にちょっと青野菜が欲しいな、といった時の料理を二品ほど。まずは小松菜をさっと茹でて、日本からのお土産品の塩麹で合えたもの。

A couple of dishes using leafy greens to accompany a Japanese-style meal. First one is komatsuna greens blanched quickly and then mixed with shio kouji, a fermented mix of rice and salt with a lot of umami.

こちらは和洋折衷というかフュージョンというか、新ケールの胡麻和えです。春先の柔らかいケールの茎の太い部分だけを取り除いて湯がき、食べやすい大きさに刻んですりゴマ（黒白両方、煎ったもの）と酒、砂糖と醤油で作ったタレと和え、ごまを振って出来上がり。ケールとは思えぬ味に仕上がりました。

This is a Japanese-Western hybrid or fusion dish of sorts - young kale in a sesame sauce. Remove the thicker parts of the stem from fresh, young, springtime kale, blanch briefly, then toss with a sauce made of ground toasted sesame seeds, sake, sugar, and soy sauce (called "goma ae"). Sprinkle some unground sesame seeds before serving. Kale cooked this way takes an almost un-kale like flavor.